In this article we take a look at Diplomacy, Polo and the watches in between.

Pictures published recently by Ministry of External Affairs (@meaindia) of PMO’s visit to Brunei Darussalam, PM Narendra Modi is being welcomed to the Istana Nurul Iman, official residence of the Sultan of Brunei, Hassanal Bolkiah by the sultan.

HM is wearing a F.P. Journe Èlègante ‘Black’ Titaylt made in Titanium. Unusual but not so much for a Sultan. You may imagine him wearing piece unique FP’s or Pateks & APs. And he does. Sporting an RM and Patek with a uniform can only be done by a ruler – a monarch. In contrast to general belief, the sultan is very much modern in his taste as compared to ‘old money’ as many would think.

RMs & uniform – Number of different Richard Mille’s spotted on the Sultan, in uniform. Image credit to respective owners.

With wealth & power comes play & pleasure, yes and responsibility. The Sultan is famous for his wealth & affluence – which can be read online. A lot many things have already been published on it. He also has a very versatile collection sometimes exchanging pieces with his son Prince Abdul Mateen (@tmski).

The Sultan’s famous gold plated Rolls Royce limousine.

It is to be mentioned the Sultan is not all things affluent, an alumnus of Royal Military Academy Sandhurst graduating as Hon. Captain in Coldstream Guards in 1966. While also being named best recruit in 1961 at Victoria Institution, KL, Malaysia where he enrolled in Cadet Corps.

Tool Watch Trivia. Image credit to respective owners.

The current Sultan ascended to throne in 1967 when his father the then Sultan H.M. Omar Ali Saifuddien abdicated the throne in his 21 year old son’s favour, the eldest in all siblings. Probably some kind of deal the British gave while leaving. Since his assession to throne Brunei has been summed up in three words – Sultanate, Oil & Islam.

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien crowns Hassanal Bolkiah

The Sultanate of Brunei gained full independence from the United Kingdom on January 1, 1984. Brunei had been a British protectorate since 1888, and the United Kingdom was responsible for its defence, security, and foreign affairs during that time. Rolexes were at all time high during this time, specially in newfound independent nations previously under the British Raj. As with all the nations around the world, from Reagan in U.S., Nehru in India, Sukarno in Indonesia or Omar in Brunei all sported a Rollie on their wrist.

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah and his father in a photo taken on Sept 10, 1986. Datejust’s on & of the crown.

Watches & Diplomacy

Watches have been used as means and gift of/for diplomacy by rulers since their inception in society. The often perceived meaning used to be “Your time is valuable to my kingdom” in order to build better relations which gradually evolved into something similar to what modern day autographs are. There is a considerable history of watches being given to ambassadors, members of court or to anyone deemed deserving by rulers. Such watches often come with engravings on their casebacks and can be found on auctions.

It is not just rulers giving away watches as gifts, they can be receivers too. For example, US Prez. Obama’s Shinola to British PM David Cameroon or Dalai Lama’s Omega to Xi Zhongxun, Xi Jinping’s father.

We have already talked about watches of PM Narendra Modi, mentioning most of the watches he wore are gifts including a Sekonda ‘House of Commons’ watch he received from the British Parliament. We believe the PMO would have received a similar gift(s) from the sultan only to be deposited at Toshakhana, until he or the team is spotted wearing one.

Now it would be obvious to think, since Brunei is a sultanate and HM Bolkiah is rich & a watch nerd, he would obviously had watches commissioned much like his middle-eastern counterparts, specifically Sultan of Oman, famous for Khanjar Dials which often appear at auction houses over a range of watches and demand a premium price.

Well, if he did why aren’t they famous? Why do we not see them appear at auctions? It seems like the Sultan did give it frail trial with Sultan of Oman’s agent Asprey & Piaget in a limited number. He later decided to gift watches in a hush way with no insignias or CoA and just engravings.

AMEDEO crisis
Hassanal had open disagreements with his brother Prince Jefri Bolkiah, who owned a network of companies and investment vehicles under the name “Amedeo” run by his son Prince Abdul Hakeem, which was used to buy the luxury goods company Asprey and build an amusement park and other projects in Brunei. Although now the brothers seem to have reconciled. Jefri is now the finance minister of the Sultanate.

HM HB commissioned Asprey with flag & a message. Available at Ebay for £1,100.

In July 1998 the Amedeo group collapsed under US$10 billion in debt. Between 1983 and mid-1998 some US$40 billion of what were called “special transfers” were made from the accounts of the Brunei Investment Agency (BIA). Prince Jefri had since commissioned and later sold many of his piece unique horological materials. HM Jefri is very open about his luxury taste often stamping watches with his stylized initials.

White Gold quartz Piaget’s commissioned via Asprey for the Sultunate of Brunei – Brunei Coat of Arms with H.B. initials.

Who received these watches is unknown yet we learnt a little something on change in habits of how the Sultan gave watches. This excerpt comes from actor Saif Ali Khan Pataudi – a royal himself from the House of Pataudi & Nawabs of Bhopal. As told in one of his interviews, Saif was once called with fellow actors to a hotel in London to meet one of the Sultan’s daughter who was a Bollywood fan.

He said, “I remember, the Sultan of Brunei — hopefully he won’t have me executed — used to have these things where you’d come and get to see him. He used to get Michael Jackson also to sing, he’s a really rich guy. His daughter was really into Bollywood, and I remember once, he had called us. It was me, Manisha Koirala, and various other people at the Dorchester Hotel in London.” “By the end of the meet we were handed over boxes with ‘golden diamond studded Rolex’ inside.”

“I’ve given it to my wife now, because it’s just really effeminate, unfortunately. But great gold watch with diamonds everywhere. I tried selling it to Ramesh Taurani, I was like, ‘Sir, it’s so you’.” Ramesh Taurani is a film director.

Perhaps the Sultan would have arranged a better gift had he known he too was a fellow aristocrat with an impeccable taste in watches. The general perception of actors being show-offs seem to be applied here, buying a gemset Rolex is peanuts for an oil rich nation. An anecdote of how watches are now given by the Sultan.

India & Brunei

For thousands of years, India and native Indian culture has dominated South and South East Asia through either conquerors or spread of words, ideas and philosophies. The accolades of the mighty Chozhas to the message of Buddha, both have reached and welcomed on the coasts of east of Jambudvīpa. Years of trade led to a unique cultural stimulation and diffusion, reminiscent of the same can still be observed till today.

India and Brunei have long enjoyed strong & healthy relations. PMO’s visit to the nation state also marked the occasion of ’40 Years of Diplomatic Relations’ between the two nations. But there is more to it than just oil & hydrocarbon trade, these relations were born during the The Brunei Revolt of 1962. Similar to India, Brunei was a British colony and as to Maharajas of several princely states on the Indian Subcontinent, Brunei was a British protectorate; while the Sultans exercised power internally the British took care of Brunei’s foreign relations and provided it security.

Brunei gained its independence from the United Kingdom more than 34 years ago, on January 1, 1984. That it was able to do so as an autonomous state, one that had seen off attempts from Malaysia and Indonesia to absorb it, owes much to the contributions of the Gurkha Rifles.

The Gurkhas are soldiers from Nepal & North-East India who have been recruited into the British Army, Nepal and the Indian Army. They are known for their bravery, loyalty & professionalism. Known by their personal weapon, a curved blade – the Khukhri, which also forms for their insignias across continents.

A violent uprising against Brunei’s proposed membership of the Federation of Malaysia started in December 1962 called the Brunei Revolt, since Brunei is 67% ethnic Malays. It was quickly quashed on four fronts: at Tutong, on the coast of Seria by the 1/2nd Gurkha Rifles; at Seria by the Queen’s Own Highlanders; at Limbang by 42 Commando Royal Maries; and at the Shell depot at Miri by the 1st Royal Greenjackets.

Notably, the 2nd Gurkha Rifles were dispatched to Brunei in December 1962, the month the Brunei revolt began. Lieutenant Colonel Digby Willoughby and a small Royal Gurkha Rifles squad helped to rescue his father and him from their palace, and his father was eternally grateful for Willoughby’s actions on that day.

Since then, on the request of the Sultan, a company of Gurkhas has been permanently stationed in Brunei, which later evolved into the Gurkha Reserve Bn. of the RBA. The Gurkha Reserve Unit (GRU) is an elite force of Nepalese soldiers who serve as the royal guard for the Sultan of Brunei.

About 500 Gurkhas work for the Brunei Gurkha Reserve Unit, the bulk of them are former members of the British Army and Singapore Police Force Ex-Nepal and Indian armies who joined the GRU as a second career.

Diplomacy – Brunei became fully independent from Great Britain in 1984. After it took full control of its destiny in 1984, India established diplomatic ties with it. PMO’s visit marked 40 years of it. Initially India’s High Commissioner to Malaysia was concurrently accredited to Brunei but a resident Mission was established in 1993. Brigadier Sawai Bhawani Singh, the then Maharaja of Jaipur, was appointed as the first resident Indian High Commissioner to Brunei in 1994 and continued till 1997.

Brig. Bhawani Singh’s appointment was on account of his personal ties with Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. Both were passionate polo players and this formed a bond between them. At times, countries send envoys to other states who have personal ties with its leadership. 

The Brunei ruling family’s passion for polo continues as two of the Sultan’s children take part in polo competitions. It would not be inappropriate to mention, in some detail, about Hassanal Bolkiah’s contacts with India on the polo circuit. The La Polo magazine notes in an article; “In his younger years, the sultan was an active member of the polo circuit, and at one point even played on the side of the team of 61st Cavalry of the Indian Army.

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei Darussalam during his visit to the Parachute Regiment Training Centre of the Indian Army in May 2008. On his wrist, what appears to be an obscure Armani watch? 

In recent years, he has been known to regularly attend polo events, especially after two of his children took up competitive polo. Additionally, a few years back, on the occasion of the sultan’s 70th birthday celebrations, a friendly polo match had been organized between the Brunei team and the 61st Cavalry Indian Army team, as an ode to his long association with the latter. The Sultan had specially taken time out for this particular match, despite his tight schedule. A testimony to his passion for polo”.

Sultan trying the Tavor Tar-21 – Israeli made bullpup in service with Indian armed & paramilitary forces.

It would be interesting to know if there was any discussion on the Sultan’s polo connection with India in his meeting with Modi. If there was it would have added a bit of condiment to the discussions.

Some parts of the excerpt have been taken from an articles written by former diplomat Shri Vivek Katju and former British Gurkha Tim Gurung.

Watches & Polo

As aristocrats and kings like to play polo, so does Prince Abdul Mateen, owner and captian of the MB Polo Team of Brunei who announced F.P. Journe as their sponsor last year. Hence a pair/pairs of Journe’s were gifted to the team including the sultan & the prince.

This all started with the prince who wore a splendid F.P. Journe Black Label Chronomètre à Résonance in his grand wedding last year which later sparked & signed a partnership between the two.

Later, the watchmaker was announced as a major title sponsor for the team and since has appeared on the team’s jersey and the player’s wrist.

The prince at his wedding – F.P. Journe Black Label Chronomètre à Résonance

You get the point.

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah (middle), a former polo player

Watches have long been part of the sport of Polo owing its humble beginnings in the villages of Manipur and the invention of one of the most sought after watches to be made – the JLC Reverso.

Jaeger LeCoultre has since associated itself closely to the sport ever since signing off the official timepiece partners for numerous Polo events across the world and so far as to have a championship under its own name – Jaeger LeCoultre Gold Cup . Other watches which make their relations to Polo include the Piaget Polo taking it’s etymology from the game.

JLC has long led the reigns of Polo, rightfully so but as other watch brands, specially F.P. Journe spreads their wings across, this may prove challenging to the brand that made it’s name making watches for Polo players. Earlier players protected their crystal from shattering but with a watch like an Elegante – made in Titanium, tough yet lightweight, sported on a rubber strap, we can all see where this is going.

 It would be interesting to know if there was any discussion on the Sultan’s polo connection with India in his meeting with PM Modi – Shri Vivek Katju, IFS, former Secretary [West], Ministry of External Affairs.

Polo, India & A Recent Release.

With Polo’s glorious roots in India and over 30+ polo clubs established across India, it would be unfortunate if there was not an Indian brand making watches based on or capitalising on it. As we write, Jaipur Watch Company based in the city of Jaipur recently collaborated with the Rajasthan Polo Club for a timepiece based on the Cartier Tank Basculante with a reversible case in four dial variants – all stone dials in a limited batch of 75 each.

Image: JWC Instagram

Made in full steel with four stone dials – Aventurine, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite & Tiger Eye. The watch is powered by Miyota 2025 quartz. The dial is pretty neat with a size of 40×30 mm the watch sits a bit big as compared to its inspirational counterparts which may make it unlikely to be worn by players.

Although for daily wear, 40mm is comfortable for the general populus – 39×28 mm would have made it more appealing to the masses. For a 8x fraction of the price of a Basculante the watch appears to be a good bargain!

HH Maharaja Sawai Padmanabh Singh of Jaipur in action. @pachojaipur @rajasthanpoloclub

The current titular head of Jaipur, Sawai Padmanabh Singh, fondly called ‘Pacho’ is an avid polo player and has led the Indian team at numerous events. However, long before starting his own career as a professional polo player, Pacho’s father, grandfather, and great-grandfather all competed in, and made valuable contributions to, the sport.

Most notably, Pacho’s great-grandfather Sawai Man Singh II won the first Polo World Cup for India in 1957. Later, his grandfather would become one of the founding members of the Federation of International Polo (FIP) and would earn the honor of giving Pacho’s father the FIP Jaipur World Cup Trophy.

Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II – led the Jaipur Polo Team to win the Polo World Cup in 1933.

The then Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II also commissioned JLC Reversos for his own State forces unit – the Sawai Man Guards, today the 17th Bn. Rajputana Rifles.

The history of sports & watches go a long way – from the first waterproof Rolex crossing the English Channel, Omega’s participation in Olympics to desi sports & watches like BWC’s cricket inspired Cover Drive, Time Grapher’s Olam chronograph inspired from the famous boat races of Kerala to now JWC’s Rajasthan Polo, these are a few examples that serve us the moral right to keep ourselves healthy, tight & on time.

It’s time we see if the orthodox polo timekeeper changed hands {wrist} from JLC to F.P. or not. It would be interesting to observe the unsaid rivalry.

C.C.